Walking in Memphis

Goals of Trip: Tour the highlights of Memphis while visiting family

Keywords: Historic, Delicious, Relaxed

Time visited: November/Winter 

Don’t forget to pack:

• Jacket or Coat

• Something with an elastic waistline 

• Comfortable shoes

Travel:

• Fly into Memphis International Airport (MEM) 

• Drivable from many adjoining states – be warned that Memphis is a sprawling city without many pedestrian-friendly connections between parts of town so cars are a must. 

Accommodations:

• Since we were visiting my family for Thanksgiving, we stayed with them in the Bartlett suburb just northwest of downtown Memphis (20 minutes away).

• Staying with family is wonderful for your budget, but comes with the increased risk of embarrassing, childhood photos.  

Friday

9:30am – Tour STAX Museum

We started the day off with some rhythm and blues at the STAX Museum of American Soul Music. As huge fans of R&B and soul artists including Isaac Hayes and Otis Redding, this was a must see on our quick visit. The museum is housed in the original, renovated recording studio on McLemore Ave. 

Tickets are very reasonable at $15 for adults, which includes a quick 20 minute introductory video detailing the origins of the Stax Records, the musicians who strolled through their doors, and the incredible music that changed the world. After this video we strolled through the exhibits that illustrate the meteoric rise of soul artists and music through the 1950s, 60s, and 70s. Some of the highlights include funkadelic concert costumes, the wall of sound–featuring all the albums Stax produced, and Isaac Hayes’ custom, Cadillac Eldorado (I’m fairly certain this was the inspiration for Pimp My Ride).

Of course, we swung by the gift shop on the way out and were delighted to pick up a couple of records and support the Soulsville Foundation which supports the programming and initiatives of the museum, the Soulsville Charter School, and the Stax Music Academy. 

Isaac Hayes iconic Cadillac Eldorado on display.

11am – Brunch at Central BBQ

After that stroll down the history of soul, we had certainly worked up an appetite. Luckily Memphis is renowned for its BBQ, specifically baby back ribs smothered in dark, smoky n’ spicy molasses BBQ sauce. 

While each region has its own spin on BBQ, from tangy Carolina, to Texas brisket, I’m partial to the sopping, messy wet ribs of Memphis–particularly the ones from Central BBQ. Central has been a Memphis institution since 2002 and featured in Food Network spotlights several times and counting. 

Since I wanted to indulge in the full range of Central’s menu, we ordered the 3 meat combo plate with a couple of Memphis brews to wash it down for the full experience. The ribs, pulled pork, bbq bologna and home cooked pork rinds were absolutely perfect–especially since we paired them with mac n’ cheese. All I have to say is, go try some for yourself. 

12pm – Tour National Civil Rights Museum

Now, directly across the street from the downtown location of Central BBQ, is the Lorraine Motel, now better known as the National Civil Rights Museum. 

For those who are unfamiliar, Dr. Martin Luther King Jr. was assassinated at the Lorraine Motel on April 4, 1968. In the wake of his death, the motel was transformed into the National Civil Rights Museum documenting not only his role in the Civil Rights Movement, but the history of racism and enslavement in the United States, the road from the Civil War to Civil Rights, and the fight people are still undertaking to ensure equality for all Americans, regardless of their color, creed, or capabilities. 

This museum is incredibly well done, but it is also a very emotionally involved experience. As a woman of color, raised in the South, I move through and interact in these spaces differently than my white counterparts. This isn’t to say that folks shouldn’t go, because everyone absolutely should. It’s just a word of warning to move through the space mindfully and respectfully. 

2pm – Explore Downtown Memphis 

After the National Civil Rights Museum we decided to continue exploring downtown Memphis. We looked at the Memphis walk of fame just outside the historic Orpheum Theatre. Then we raised our spirits with sweet treats from Dinstuhl's Candies, and continued adding to our growing record collection by stopping in at River City Records. 

We took a peek at the mighty Mississippi from Front Street as we were “walking in Memphis” (and we really were 10 feet off of Beale Street). We truly enjoyed strolling through downtown and wandering into shops that tickled our fancy. 

3:30pm – Hydration Break at Bardog

All that walking around made us pretty thirsty so we dropped into Bardog to wet our whistles. Bardog Tavern is an old school, hole in the wall establishment known for their quick service, stiff drinks, and delicious bites. 

We ordered a couple drinks and some fries as we kicked up our feet and enjoyed the atmosphere. 

5pm – Beale Street

Once we finished up at Bardog we dropped our candies and records off at the car before walking on Beale Street. 

This iconic stretch of restaurants, clubs, and now, tourist traps is one of the original homes of the blues. Beale Street was originally a vibrant Black community within Memphis and played host to Civil Rights activist Booker T. Washington and was home and headquarters to Ida B. Wells and her anti-segregationist newspaper, Free Speech. 

W.C. Handy made Beale Street and Memphis the Home of the Blues in the early 1900s. With this reputation well established, more and more renowned musicians came to Beale Street, particularly through the 1920s-1940s. Blues icons like Louis Armstrong, Muddy Waters, and B.B. King all played on Beale and developed their own legendary style. 

We wandered through the pedestrian only street and took in all the music that was coming out of the open bars. Even in the off season, Beale Street has live music every night. We stopped in for a drink and some music at Silky O’Sullivans before wandering down to Wet Willie’s where we got a couple of enormous daiquiris. Beale Street does not have an open container law, so we strolled on, sipping our enormous frozen treats. 

We stopped in at a couple of tourist traps for Elvis souvenirs since we didn’t make it to Graceland this trip. 

7pm – Gibson’s Donuts 

We stopped by Gibson’s Donuts before calling it a night for a couple of hot n’ fresh original glazed donuts. The perfect end to this historic and delicious visit to the unofficial capital of the Mid-South.